Susan Frank herds hairy, black pigs with names like Bacon and Pork Chop around the Maine woods. She believes her farm is essential to the survival of the now-rare American mulefoot hog.
According to the Livestock Conservancy, fewer than 500 registered, purebred, breeding mulefoots remain in the country. Frank's Dogpatch Farm keeps a dozen of them, along with almost 200 other hogs.
Frank holds a surprising view for saving the seriously declining breed: Eat the pig to save the pig. She wants to promote the mulefoot as a premier food pig—a status it held in the early 20th century. She claims that increasing the pig’s demand as food will lead to more breeding—preserving the breed as a whole.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture is listening. The agency granted her $50,000 to raise interest in mulefoot meat. With it, Frank is promoting the meat as a delicacy. She’s seeking out chefs, restaurants, and markets around New England and New York to offer it.
The mulefoot is named for its hoof shape. Most pigs have cloven hooves. But the mulefoot’s two digits are fused together—a characteristic called syndactylism. The pig’s hoof resembles that of a small mule or donkey.
The mulefoot once lived wild in Iowa, Arkansas, and Missouri. It was nicknamed the “Ozark hog” and had a reputation for being immune to diseases that affect other hogs. About a century ago, 200 herds were actively bred for slaughter. But as vaccines against diseases became common, other breeds gained popularity. Though the mulefoot produces a succulent meat, a typical litter of piglets is far smaller than other breeds now grown for commercial use. It simply takes longer to produce as many pigs for market from mulefoot stock. It was gradually replaced on farms. Numbers dwindled.
A decade ago, only one significant herd in Missouri remained. Susan Frank got into the business in 2012 with just three purebred pigs. The drive to save the breed is motivated in part by the importance of preserving its genes. If the pig becomes extinct, the genes responsible for its hardy and tasty qualities will be lost. They may be helpful in the future for cross-breeding with other commercial breeds to produce the best and most meat.
In addition to championing the meat among foodies, Frank hopes to organize a festival based around mulefoot products in New England. She believes helping the breed come back will be good for everyone. “It’s not just to make a living for me,” she says.
